I Went to SUR Barra Nikkei Four Times in Six Weeks

A friend told me I needed to try SUR Barra Nikkei while I was staying in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Good recommendation.

I ended up going four times in six weeks. ☺️

Normally when I’m somewhere for an extended stay, I want to keep trying new places. And I did try many great restaurants in Puerto Rico.

But every once in a while, I find somewhere that makes me forget about that rule.

SUR was one of those places.

SUR Barra Nikkei San Juan: Nikkei in Santurce

SUR is a Nikkei restaurant in Santurce, blending Peruvian and Japanese cooking.

But honestly, that’s about as far as I need to go explaining it.

The fun part is sitting down and ordering.

Ceviches. Tiraditos. Sushi. Seafood. Beef. Cocktails. Plates covered in sauces, herbs, flowers and ingredients I couldn’t always identify.

Almost everything that arrived at the table looked like a little piece of art.

And that’s how most of my meals at SUR went.

Order something.

Share it.

Order something else. Shlay it.

Repeat.

I eventually ate my way through a pretty good portion of the menu.

What I Ate

One of the dinners I photographed particularly well included Tiradito Pulpo, Wasabi Ceviche, Mixtura Ceviche Mixto, Fuego Frío Sushi, Paseo Por La Amazona and SUR’s take on Lomo Saltado.

The ceviches were some of my favorites.

Bright, acidic, creamy, spicy and full of contrasting textures.

Then there were little composed bites that barely survived long enough for a picture.

And eventually something a little more substantial.

Lomo Saltado

SUR’s En las “Conchas Negras” – Lomo Saltado came with beef, rice, potatoes and tomato surrounded by a deep, glossy sauce.

This was one of those dishes where the Peruvian and Japanese influences made immediate sense together.

But I could keep trying to describe everything we ate, or I could show you what kept happening afterward.

I somehow accumulated an entire collection of SHLAYED pics during my four visits.

That’s probably a more useful restaurant review than anything I can write.

And Then There Was the Dessert

This deserves its own section.

The dessert was a matcha cheesecake with black sesame ice cream and white sesame ice cream.

And just look at this thing.

The cheesecake itself was beautiful — a thin wedge of pale green matcha cheesecake with a darker crust, sitting between two scoops of sesame ice cream.

But what made the plate special was everything around it.

There were tiny splatters of sauce across the plate. They looked decorative at first, almost like someone had flicked a paintbrush over a canvas.

Except every little splatter was a punch of flavor.

You’d drag a bite through one and suddenly get something sweet, tart or fruity that changed the bite completely.

There were also little pieces of foam salt scattered around the plate. Another tiny detail that looked like decoration until you ate one and got that hit of salt against the sweetness.

Nothing on the plate felt accidental.

The earthy matcha. The nuttiness of the black sesame. The lighter white sesame ice cream. The little explosions of sauce. That occasional bit of salt.

You could build a slightly different bite every time.

This wasn’t just my favorite dessert at SUR.

It’s one of those desserts I still think about.

And naturally, nobody was allowed to touch it until we took pictures.

Then this happened.

Another SHLAYED plate for the collection.

Why I Kept Coming Back

The food got me back through the door.

The people are what made SUR special.

The service was some of the best I experienced during my six weeks in Puerto Rico.

It wasn’t stuffy or overly formal. It was warm and personal.

And because I kept coming back, something started happening.

They remembered me.

There’s something especially nice about that when you’re temporarily living somewhere.

You’re not really a tourist anymore, but you’re definitely not a local.

You’re somewhere in between.

Finding a coffee shop, bar or restaurant where people recognize you gives you a tiny sense of belonging.

SUR became that place for me.

By my fourth visit, I wasn’t going because a friend had recommended it.

I was going because I wanted to go back to SUR.

One Last Dinner

For my fourth and final visit, I went alone.

By then, I knew the place.

They knew me.

And instead of trying to squeeze another new restaurant into my remaining time in Puerto Rico, I wanted one more meal somewhere that had become familiar.

Eating there alone ended up being a perfect way to finish the experience.

I slowed down. Talked to the staff. Ate some more incredible food.

And before I left, the chef gave me a bottle of sauce to take home.

I didn’t ask for it.

It was just a gift.

That little bottle probably says more about why I loved SUR than another thousand words about ceviche ever could.

Four Visits Later

A friend recommended a restaurant to me.

Six weeks later, I’d eaten there four times, worked my way through a good chunk of the menu, gotten to know some of the people there and walked out of my final dinner carrying a bottle of sauce from the chef.

That’s the kind of travel experience I love.

Not just checking places off a list.

Finding places I want to return to.

So if you’re in San Juan and somebody tells you to check out SUR Barra Nikkei…

Take the recommendation.

It worked out pretty well for me.


SUR Barra Nikkei

Santurce, San Juan, Puerto Rico

NRDLIFE verdict: Go!

How I’d eat here: Bring someone, order several plates, share everything and ask the staff what they recommend.

And definitely save room for the matcha cheesecake. 🤤

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